Reuilly is a wine growing appellation in the eastern Loire Valley, not far from Sancerre. The three main grapes grown there are Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and a tiny amount of Pinot Gris (also known as Pinot Grigio). Pinot Gris is a sub-clone of Pinot Noir that has a very pale, blueish-grey skin. Much of the soil in Reuilly consists of Kimmeridgian marl, a type of limestone perfect for the production of aromatic, delicate wines.
Domaine de Reuilly is a 17 hectare organic estate in the heart of this commune. Denis Jamain’s grandfather first planted vines here in 1935, when he also purchased a small parcel in the local forest. Denis has been managing the estate since 1990 and has the luck of being able to select oak trees from his grandfather’s forest to be made into barrels for aging his own wines!
Denis’ rosé is made from 100% Pinot Gris. It is pale and undeniably tasty. The juice for this wine doesn’t get much more than 3 hours of contact with its already light-colored grape skins, so the barely pink color is no surprise. What I love most about this rosé is its light and silky texture, a result of the soil where the grapes grow. It is aromatic and the pedigree of its soil shines through on the palate. In terms of flavor, Jamain’s Reuilly rosé is dense with minerals and offers pristine acidity all the way through.
Try this rosé on its own, without any food to get in the way of the delicate nuances. This way you can really savor the wine’s texture and minerality, and its lovely, feminine nose. If you’re hungry for a little cheese, try a fresh, rindless Loire Valley goat milk cheese like Valençay. After all, isn’t simplicity and enjoyment what rosé wine is all about? If you don’t enjoy this marvelous rosé, I’ll give you my left arm, and I’m a leftie so that’s really saying something!
Jessica Smith is the Wine Buyer and a cheesemonger at Formaggio Kitchen Cambridge.
